SPEAR GUNS                                                 

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Spearfishing with the pole spear  

by Rudy Mola

Spearfishing with a pole spear is the diving version of hunting with bow and arrow, it requires stealth, accuracy, and endurance.

As with archery it is a more primitive and to some a more sporting way to take fish. Let's face it, were hunting fish with a pointy stick…that's about as primitive as it gets, but in that lie the challenge and the reward. 

Using a pole spear forces you to stretch your limits, a little deeper, a little longer, a little closer.

The typical pole spear consists of a pole from two to ten feet of aluminum or fiberglass with a rubber elastic (rubber tubing) on one end and a threaded stainless rod on the other. 

The pole spear can be used in one of two forms, In one method the primary hand goes through the rubber loop (holding between thumb and forefinger), the spear is gripped and the rubber is stretched forward as far as possible, the tip is instinctively aimed at the target  and when the grip is relaxed the spear flies forward towards the target.

The other popular method is more common to the islanders, and resembles the use of the Hawaiian sling, this being a wooden hollow tube with elastic bands tied on the outside.  The shaft is pulled through the wooden opening and is held by a retainer on the band, it is stretched similar to  pulling a bow and released at the intended target.  In the case of the pole spear your weak hand, thumb through the band, grips the pole, with the strong hand the back end of the pole is pulled back, again is similar in fashion to an arrow,  and when ready released, with the pole spear sliding through your weak hand towards the target. 

Both methods have merit, with the one handed aiming takeing a bit more practice, but it allows you to get a bit closer to your target, while the two-handed method it is a bit more powerful and easier to aim, but you sacrifice distance.

In both cases once the pole spear is released, you hold on to the rubber bungee to retrieve the spear and, hopefully, the fish. 

It is a good idea to practice on a target to get the feel and accuracy of your spear before attempting to put fish on the table.  A bad shot will not only leave your cooler empty, but no sense hurting fish that will get away.   

I know it is a great temptation to resist, but, when you get your first pole spear, (notice I said first), you will have learned by the time you get your second.  Do not practice out of water, in the apartment, or the back yard. Once the spear has been released and reaches the end of travel it will come back at you with obvious results.    

Pole spears are used on occasions out of the water, such as for frog-gigging.  These pole spears generally have a longer, looser band as less force is required and will not bounce back at the user.     

Spear tips are equipped with some sort of barb, fixed or hinged, to prevent the prey, once speared, from getting away.

 Tips vary according to the use and prey, from small single barb, to multiple prongs in line like a trident or from 3 to 5 long barbs at a slight angle from the base, these have their origin in very primitive spears, the jutting barbs  secure the impaled prey.

Tips that attach directly to the tip are intended for medium to small fish, as a more powerful fish if speared in a non-vital area will force it's way loose.

Larger fish require a detachable tip, these are held in place by a small leader cable so the fish may trash about without breaking loose or damaging the pear pole.

For really large fish in deep or blue water,  the spearfisherman may opt to use a detachable  tip attached to a long line on a float.  This allows the diver to surface for air, if free diving,  or control the fish from a distance if sharks are in the area.  

Always inspect the rubber tubing on any pole spear before stretching it back, as the rubber gets old it will decay, eventually snapping and usually with painful results.

Remember important safety considerations when using any type of spear gun;  spear only what you intend to eat, know the local laws, display maturity and consideration when handling a speargun, all other spear fishermen will be judged by your actions, most important treat all guns as if they were loaded and never point at anyone.

Learning to use a pole spear is easy and fun, inexpensive, and a great way to start learning about spearfishing, but it's not only for beginners.  Many seasoned spearfishermen  (sorry, no disrespect intended, but I just can't bring myself to say spearfishingpeople…) find it exhilarating to take on the challenge of bringing in the catch with the venerable pole spear.  

 If you been thinking about getting into the sport of spearfishing, there is no better time than the present.

A  phenomenon of devastating proportions is currently occurring off the East Coast and the  Caribbean, that is the infestation of predatory Lionfish, a non-native species that has no natural enemies and is causing havoc on the delicate ecosystem of the coral reefs.

 To this event come an army of divers equipped with the best weapon available, a small pole spear, measuring about two to three feet and a multi-pronged tip to remove every Lionfish they see.  As reward for their labors the Lionfish turns out to be quite a tasty treat. 

I encourage you to learn more about the problem with the Lionfish and join the fight to remove this real threat from our reefs.  The pole spear equipped divers are the front line defense against these  tiny eco-terrorists. Save the reef,and go on a Lion hunt.

Spearfishing is great fun, is great exercise, and puts food on the table.  Somehow the fish always tastes better when you bring it in, and let's not forget the stories. 

Support your local dive shop, check out their spearfishing gear, and ask for advice on learning and trips.  Safe diving.

THE PNEUMATIC SPEARGUN

Function, features, performance, and maintenance 

by Rudy Mola

Designed as a high powered, compact speargun it has repeatedly proven Itself in reliability and performance from the weekend sport hunter to the commercial fishermen to world title competition.

The pneumatic speargun has been around since the late 50's, but it's function still continues to be misunderstood by many today.

It consists of an air tight chamber which houses a barrel, a piston, a trigger mechanism and a shock absorbing device. A small quantity of oil is present to lubricate all internal components.

Some models feature a "Hi/ Lo" pressure selection switch for fast and slow shaft discharge speeds. 

Factory recommended operating pressure is usually at 22 BARs or about 325 psi.

Pressure is fully adjustable by the user to adapt the gun to any style of spear fishing or condition.

The function of the pneumatic speargun is to propel a steel shaft through the water quickly, accurately and quietly with the use of compressed air.

Because it is a sealed system and no air escapes, the speargun has unlimited use. This is accomplished by the use of an o-ring sealed piston which travels the length of the barrel. Air is pressurized in the reservoir through the filler valve by means of a hand pump. the number of pumps required to bring the gun up to pressure depends on the size of the gun, on the larger models it may require as many as 300 pumps. The "unloaded" gun has the piston pressing against the shock absorber in the muzzle (front) of the gun. Pneumatic speargun are shipped from the factory pressurized with about 300 psi of pressure. It is recommended that the beginner reduce the pressure until he/she becomes accustomed to the loading process. Once this has been mastered the pressure may be increased by using the hand pump. Be careful not to get the pump or filling port wet when pressurizing as water will enter the gun and begin corrosion.

Loading the gun should be done only underwater.  Start by inserting the butt end of the shaft into the muzzle of the gun.  Then, holding the spear tip with a loading device while holding the gun by the muzzle, begin to insert or cock the shaft into the barrel. Rotate the loading hand, cawing the shaft to rotate 180 degrees in a corkscrew fashion as it is inserted into the barrel, this minimizes the possibility of bending the shaft. Continue loading until the shaft "clicks" into the loaded position.   

Spear fishing calls for extreme caution, three cardinal rules to always obey are:

1. Never aim or point a speargun at any one.

2. Never fire the gun out of water,  due to the sudden impact of the piston on the shock absorber it is necessary for water to be in the barrel to soften the impact.  Firing a pneumatic speargun out of water is dangerous, will damage the gun, and will void any warranty.

3. Never load a bent shaft into the barrel as it will scratch the interior surface and the gun will leak out air.

Maximum accurate shooting range on most spear guns will be about 3 shaft-lengths away from the muzzle, beyond that,  most experienced spear fishermen will pass up the shot.  Naturally the longer the gun, the longer the shaft,  the greater the reach,  the higher the pressure (within limits), and the longer the piston run in the barrel, the further the shaft will travel.

Because most guns come from the factory with a “cold rolled” steel shaft,  it is recommended that you should always have a back-up shaft while spear fishing,  the best advice is to obtain a spring, or stainless shaft for primary use with your favorite spear tip  and use the one that comes with the gun as your back-up.  Other accessories are available such as line reels and floats.

Perhaps the most misunderstood device in the dive industry is the “Hi / Lo” power actuator on some pneumatic spear guns.  Think of it as a shut off valve to the main air reservoir,  it allows for the shaft to be fired using a minimum amount of air, thus firing at a slower speed.  This is helpful when you are very close to your target and will also avoid damaging the reef and your spear tip. Also useful in discharging the gun prior to leaving the water, it not only minimizes muzzle impact but if maintained in that setting it will allow for an easier loading of the gun the next time.

The “Hi / Lo” actuator may be used to facilitate the loading of a large gun with high pressure (300 to 380 psi).  By setting the pressure to low, as the gun is loaded,  air pressure building up behind the piston begins to equalize with the pressure in the main reservoir via the one way valve.  In this fashion if one is not strong enough to load the gun in one single movement, it may be loaded in a stair step fashion by transferring air to the main reservoir.  As you allow the shaft to return to unloaded position the air behind the piston is now less and makes it easier for the next attempt.   Bear in mind that as you approach the “cocked” position the pressure will build up to the same as the pressure in the reservoir regardless of activator setting.

Pressurizing the gun to over 26 BARs (ATMs), or about 380 psi, is not recommended.  It will not greatly increase the range, while it may shorten muzzle shock absorber life and makes it very difficult to load, increasing the chance of bending the shaft.

After use the gun should be rinsed in fresh water (a few minutes soak is advisable) and stored muzzle down to allow the oil inside to coat and clean the barrel.

When the gun is serviced it is imperative to use a separate bench and tools from those used in regulators to avoid oil contamination.  When checking for air leakage do not use the tank fill basin, as a thin layer of oil will slick the surface. When a tank is immersed the oil will coat the surface, this is particularly dangerous on the valve face as it will contaminate the air fill and if O2 is being used, you have a very dangerous, explosive situation.

 When servicing the gun, it should be pressurized for testing,  if an automatic pressurizing device is to be used, use a pressure regulator set to 300 psi.

DO NOT PRESSURIZE DIRECTLY FROM HIGH PRESSURE. After testing, while the gun is still pressurized, it is possible to add oil by using the manual pump.  Back the pump lever to a point prior to accessing the breather hole,  add oil to the pump (2 to 3 tablespoons),  screw the gun on to the pump and invert with the muzzle to the floor,  press the pump handle down and pump the oil into the gun.  This not only saves time but also cleans and lubricates the filler valve mechanism,  always follow with a couple of additional pumps to insure proper air entry.

IMPORTANT SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS:

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